If you are interested to find out more about the island, the expedition and our objectives (including pictures) please see below.
Overview of Tioman Island and the Dragon's Horns:
Tioman Island (a.k.a. Pulau Tioman) is a small island located 32 km off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia in the state of Pahang, and is some 39 km long and 12 km wide. It is commonly visited as a tourist destination, however there is also great potential for first ascents on the numerous granite big walls dotted along the southern coast of the Island, as well as some presumed potential on the interior of the Island. In addition to minor crags along the coast, the walls rise to 800m (approx.), such as on Mumbar Peak. The most dominant feature is the "Dragon's Horns" (a.k.a. Bukit Nekek Semekut) which is comprised of one large tower/spire (Greater) and a smaller one (Lesser) adjacent to the east.
Waking Dream was the first route put up on the Island in the summer of 2000 by Scotty Nelson and Nick Tomlin (previous attempts as early as 1999) and it took a relatively direct line up the south face of the Dragon's Horns. In 2002 the first Malaysian team made the 2nd ascent of the route and put up their own mostly free variation half way up the original route. Since then the route has been freed and a couple of attempts have been made on new lines on the southern face; however much more potential exists for first ascents on the Dragon's Horns and elsewhere on the Island. As it stands Waking Dream and the Malaysian Route is still the only fully established line on the Island after nearly a decade.
Primary Objective:
- To attempt the unclimbed South-West Pillar of the Dragon's Horns. This will be the second only independent route on the peak, as well as the second route on the island itself in nearly a decade since the first ascent of the "Waking Dream".
Secondary Objective:
- Scope out potential lines elsewhere on the Dragon's Horns and surrounding peaks and attempt what we view as viable. Particularly the smaller Dragon's Horns (to the right of the Main Horn)
- Explore and develop the coastal crags to benefit the local community and visiting climbers.
- Research in to flora and fauna existing around the Dragon's Horns (currently in planning).
This shows a side shot of our proposed route in relation to the current line, Waking Dream. The SW pillar actually descends much lower than what is shown in the picture (image courtesy of Scotty Nelson).